No-Cook

Smith slyly doctors the sweet-tart Italian condiment to gain an unmistakable berry flavor with a little tangy crunch.

This classic appetizer showcases prosciutto's buttery texture and oaky sweetness. Simply wrapping it, unadorned, around thin, crisp grissini allows you to focus your attention on nuances you might otherwise miss. Its success will depend on your prosciutto, so look for imported Parma such as prosciutto di Rotondo or San Daniele or an excellent domestic brand such as La Quercia.

Like tsatsiki, but with cilantro standing in for the mint, this tangy sauce packs a sneaky cayenne kick and makes an ideal accompaniment to grilled shrimp as well as the rice pilaf and the chicken kebabs.

To make curls, soften a chocolate bar briefly in the microwave and run a vegetable peeler along one long side.

A classic crowning touch for Italian-style braised veal shanks, this sprinkle of citrus and herbs adds freshness to long-cooked short ribs, too.

Look for bresaola (air-cured, thinly sliced beef) in the refrigerated section of some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and Italian markets. WHAT TO DRINK: A fruity, sassy, off-dry white wine like Lindemans 2005 "Bin 75" Riesling, Australia ($8).

Asiago cheese can be found at some supermarkets, specialty foods stores, and Italian markets.

These classic candies (called sweetmeats by the British) look sinful but are little more than dried apricots, figs, and plums dusted with nuts, cocoa, or sugar.

Buttery chunks of avocado, little hits of radish heat, and a simple, lemony vinaigrette make this salad a crisp and refreshing balm.

Salsa verde cruda This all-raw salsa can be thrown together in just ten minutes. And because it's made with tomatillos rather than tomatoes, it's less sweet and more refreshing than the more familiar red salsa. (We also think it's more interesting for topping Mexican dishes such as huevos rancheros or for eating with tortilla chips.)